Why Choose Biogrowth Organics for Your Gardening Needs?
Science-Backed Nutrients for Your Greenest Garden Yet
Lab tested formulas that fuel growth, enhance soil and deliver unmatched results naturally
Vivid Liquid Organic Plant Vitamin for Flowers & Lawns
Catalyst Liquid Organic Plant Vitamin for Veggies & Fruits
Thrive Liquid Organic Plant Vitamin for Cannabis
Why BioGrowth?
Revolutionizes plant care with cutting edge enzyme technology and microbial solutions that enrich soil, strengthen plants, and promote long-term sustainability. Whether you're an experienced farmer or a first-time gardener, BioGrowth simplifies the growing process of eliminating guesswork and reducing reliance on synthetic fertilizers and pesticides.
100% Organic & Eco-Friendly
100% Organic & Eco-Friendly
Made from natural, sustainable ingredients, BioGrowth nurtures plants while protecting the environment. It enhances biodiversity and soil fertility without harmful chemicals.
Science-Backed, No Guesswork Required
Science-Backed, No Guesswork Required
Powered by advanced enzyme technology and microbial blends, BioGrowth supercharges soil health and plant resilience. Yet, it’s designed for ease: no PhD required. Replace fertilizers, pesticides and boosters with one foolproof solution.
One Stop Solution, Every Gardener's Goal
One Stop Solution, Every Gardener's Goal
Forget juggling with multiple products. BioGrowth is a one-stop solution that supports plants at every stage making plant care simple, effective and accessible for growers of all levels.
Why We Stand Out ?
Why We Stand Out ?
“Empower Your Green Thumb, From Hobbyist to Pro." BioGrowth democratizes professional grade agricultural technology, making advanced gardening practices accessible to non professionals while enhancing efficacy and sustainability for seasoned growers.
Easy to Use. Minimal Effort, Maximum Growth.
Effortlessly enhances plant health with BioGrowth’s nutrient rich, easy to use formula. Our organic blend enriches the soil, fortifies roots, and supports sustainable growth, simplifying gardening while keeping it greener!
Shake Well
Shake the product well to ensure the ingredients are thoroughly mixed.
Mix with Water
Mix the suggested amount of fertilizer with water
Spray and Nourish
Spray it on to soil every 10 - 14 days
Proof in Every Leaf: BioGrowth’s Impact in Action
Cultivating a Greener Future
Driven by a passion for sustainability and innovation, BioGrowth was founded by environmentalists and scientists dedicated to creating eco-friendly solutions for healthier plants and soils.
Hear From Happy Growers
Sara
"I’ve been using Biogrowth products on my vegetable garden for two seasons now. Healthier soil, stronger plants, and no harsh chemicals. It’s made a huge difference!"
Jamal
"I was skeptical at first, but after switching to Biogrowth, my harvest was noticeably bigger and healthier."
Miguel
"Easy to apply, eco-friendly, and you can actually see the results. My tomatoes have never looked this good — and I feel good knowing it’s all organic."
Rachel
"Finally found a product that improves the soil and supports healthy growth without all the synthetic junk. Love that it’s safe for my kids and pets too."
Marcus
"No more mixing six different bottles. This one does it all. My garden’s never been happier, and neither has my schedule."
🌍The BioGrowth Difference: "A Healthier Garden, A Greener Planet"
How to Improve Drainage in Raised Bed Gardens: 7 Expert Solutions
One of the primary reasons gardeners switch to raised beds is for superior drainage. However, even the best-constructed beds can fall victim to waterlogging over time. If you’ve noticed puddles that won't disappear or a sour smell coming from your soil, your plants are likely "drowning" due to a lack of oxygen. Poor drainage leads to root rot, stunted growth, and a loss of precious nutrients. In this guide, we’ll explore how to diagnose drainage issues and provide seven simple ways to restore the perfect balance of moisture and air in your garden. Is Your Raised Bed Waterlogged? 3 Warning Signs Before you dig, look for these "cries for help" from your garden: Surface Ponding: Water remains visible on top of the soil for more than an hour after rain or watering. Yellowing & Wilting: Plants look thirsty (wilting), but the soil feels like a wet sponge. This often means the roots have started to rot and can no longer "drink." Soil Compaction: The soil feels rock-hard when dry and sticky/slimy when wet, indicating a lack of pore space. 7 Ways to Improve Drainage and Save Your Roots 1. Optimize Your Soil Architecture The foundation of drainage is your soil mix. If you used 100% native topsoil, it is likely too heavy. The Fix: Aim for a "fluffy" ratio of 60% topsoil, 30% organic compost, and 10% aeration materials like perlite or coarse sand. If your soil has already become dense, avoid a total replacement. Use Enzymplus. Its enzyme-rich formula helps break down organic "clogs" and improves soil structure, allowing water to move through the profile more naturally. 2. Deep-Aerate the Base If your bed sits on heavy clay ground, water can get trapped at the bottom, creating a "perched water table." The Fix: Before the season starts, use a garden fork to loosen the ground underneath the bed by 6–8 inches. This creates a vertical pathway for excess water to escape into the subsoil. 3. Incorporate High-Quality Organic Matter As organic matter breaks down, it creates "tunnels" and aggregates that allow air and water to circulate. The Fix: Add 2 inches of fresh compost or leaf mold every season. Maintaining this habit is the best way to rejuvenate old raised bed soil and prevent future drainage disasters. 4. Install a Drainage Layer (For Hard Surfaces) If your raised bed is on concrete or a patio, the water has nowhere to go but out the sides. The Fix: Add a 3-inch base layer of coarse gravel or "logs" (Hügelkultur style) at the very bottom of the bed. Cover this with landscape fabric to prevent your good soil from washing away through the gaps. 5. Switch to "Mounded" Planting In exceptionally wet climates, extra elevation is your friend. The Fix: Instead of keeping the soil surface flat, create 4-inch high mounds or "raised rows" within the bed. Plant your seedlings on top of these mounds; this ensures the "crown" of the plant stays dry even if the base of the bed is saturated. 6. Practice Precision Watering Sometimes the drainage isn't the problem, the gardener is! Overwatering is the #1 cause of artificial waterlogging. The Fix: Always use the "finger test" (stick your finger 2 inches deep) before watering. If it's moist, wait. To help your plants recover from the stress of a "wet feet" episode, apply Thrive. It acts as an immune booster, helping plants resist the fungal pathogens that thrive in soggy conditions. 7. Choose "Airy" Mulches While mulch is great for moisture retention, a thick, matted layer of grass clippings can actually trap too much water and suffocate the soil. Use breathable mulches like pine bark nuggets or straw. These allow the soil to "breathe" while still protecting the surface from erosion. Conclusion: A Breath of Fresh Air for Your Garden Drainage is about more than just moving water; it’s about making room for oxygen. By combining physical fixes (like aeration) with biological boosters (like enzymes), you can create a resilient garden that thrives in both droughts and downpours. Worried about your soil health? Visit the Biogrowth Organics Shop for the professional-grade tools you need to fix your soil from the inside out. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) 1. Does adding rocks to the bottom of a raised bed actually help? If your bed is on top of soil, rocks can actually hinder drainage by creating a "saturated zone" where the soil meets the rocks. However, if your bed is on concrete, a rock layer is essential to allow water to flow out from underneath the frame. 2. Can I use Enzymplus to fix a currently flooded bed? While you should wait for the standing water to recede first, Enzymplus is an excellent follow-up. It helps break down the anaerobic (oxygen-free) "sludge" that forms during flooding and re-introduces the healthy biology your plants need to recover. 3. Why is my raised bed soil staying wet even in the sun? This is often a sign of high clay content or "surface crusting." When the top layer of soil becomes a hard crust, it prevents evaporation and traps moisture below. A light raking and the addition of organic matter will solve this. 4. How long does it take to fix poor drainage? Physical changes (like adding perlite) work instantly. Biological changes (like improving structure with enzymes and compost) take about 2–4 weeks to show a visible difference in how the soil handles water. 5. What plants are best for beds that drain slowly? If you can't fix the drainage immediately, try planting "thirsty" crops like Willows, Dogwood, or certain varieties of Iris. However, for vegetables, you must fix the drainage to avoid crop failure. 6. Should I use a liner in my raised bed? If you use a liner, ensure it is a "breathable" geotextile fabric. Avoid plastic liners, as these turn your raised bed into a bathtub, causing instant waterlogging.
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The Best Soil Mix for Raised Bed Gardens: A Guide to the Perfect Blend
One of the greatest advantages of raised bed gardening is the total control you have over your growing environment. Unlike traditional in-ground gardening, you aren’t stuck with the "dirt" nature gave you. You can create a premium, nutrient-dense foundation from scratch. Healthy soil is the difference between a struggling garden and a high-yield harvest. In this guide, we will break down the ideal raised bed soil mix, why it works, and how to supercharge it for long-term success. Why You Can’t Just Use "Garden Soil" Many beginners make the mistake of filling their beds with standard garden soil or topsoil. In a confined raised bed, regular soil is often too dense. It compacts easily, leading to poor drainage where water sits around the roots and causes rot, a lack of oxygen because roots need pore space to breathe, and stunted growth since compacted soil makes it difficult for young roots to spread. The perfect raised bed mix needs to be light, fluffy, and rich in organic matter. The "Gold Standard" Blend: The 1/3 Recipe Also known as "Mel’s Mix," this is widely considered the most effective soil recipe for home gardeners. The Ratio 1/3 Organic Compost for nutrients and microbial life. 1/3 Peat Moss or Coco Coir for moisture retention and a light texture. 1/3 Vermiculite or Perlite for aeration and drainage. Pro Tip: We highly recommend Coco Coir over peat moss. It is more sustainable, has a more neutral pH, and holds water more effectively for thirsty vegetables. The Budget-Friendly DIY Soil Mix If you are filling large or multiple beds, the "Gold Standard" can get expensive. For a more economical approach that still delivers results, use this ratio. 60% High-Quality Topsoil: Provides the physical structure. 30% Diverse Compost: Provides the food. 10% Perlite or Coarse Sand: Prevents the topsoil from packing down. Even with a great DIY mix, soil can become tired after one season. Learn how to rejuvenate old raised bed soil to keep your garden productive year after year. How to Optimize Your Mix for Maximum Growth A soil mix is only as good as the biological activity within it. To ensure your new soil is alive and ready for planting, consider these expert additions. 1. Diversify Your Compost Don’t just use one type. A blend of mushroom compost, worm castings, and leaf mold creates a broader spectrum of nutrients. 2. Add Biological Spark Plugs New soil mixes, especially those with a lot of peat or coir, can be biologically quiet. To jumpstart the ecosystem, we recommend adding Enzymplus. Its enzyme-enhanced formula helps integrate the new components and makes nutrients immediately bioavailable to your seedlings. 3. Trace Minerals Raised beds can sometimes lack the deep-earth minerals found in-ground. Adding a small amount of rock dust or kelp meal can provide the micronutrients that produce more flavorful fruits and vegetables. Calculating How Much Soil You Need Before you head to the garden center, use this simple formula to avoid overbuying. Length (ft) × Width (ft) × Height (ft) = Total Cubic Feet Example: A standard 4×4 bed that is 1 foot deep requires 16 cubic feet of soil. Tip: Soil always settles after the first few waterings. Fill your beds to the very top; within a week, they will settle to the perfect level. Maintenance: The Secret to Long-Term Fertility Raised bed soil is a long-term investment. Every spring and fall, you should refresh your beds by adding 1–2 inches of fresh compost. If you’re growing heavy feeders like tomatoes or peppers, supplement your watering routine with Catalyst. It ensures that even as the soil ages, your plants have the specific vitamins they need for high-quality yields. Ready to build your dream garden? Browse the Biogrowth Organics Shop for the organic enhancers that turn basic soil into a growing powerhouse. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) 1. Can I use 100% compost in my raised bed? While compost is great, 100% compost can actually be too rich and may drain too quickly or settle too much. A mix like the 1/3 ratio provides better structure and aeration for root development. 2. Is Coco Coir better than Peat Moss for raised beds? Yes, most organic gardeners prefer coco coir because it is a sustainable byproduct, has a more neutral pH, and is easier to re-wet if it ever dries out completely. 3. How deep should the soil be in a raised bed? For most vegetables, 12 inches of soil is the sweet spot. However, root crops like carrots or large perennials may thrive better in beds 18–24 inches deep. 4. Why did my raised bed soil turn hard? This is usually a sign of compaction or a lack of organic matter. You can fix this by gently loosening the soil with a fork and adding Enzymplus to help break down compacted particles and restore aeration. 5. Do I need to replace my raised bed soil every year? No. You only need to replenish the nutrients. Check out our blog on rejuvenating old soil to see how to save money by refreshing your existing mix. 6. What is the best way to prevent weeds in new raised bed soil? Always use screened topsoil and high-quality compost to ensure you aren’t introducing weed seeds. Topping your new mix with a layer of mulch will also prevent wind-blown seeds from taking root.
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How to Rejuvenate Old Raised Bed Soil: 8 Steps to Restore Soil Health
After a few successful growing seasons, you might notice the "magic" of your raised beds starting to fade. Perhaps your tomato yields are dropping, or the soil feels hard, sunken, and lifeless. The good news? You don’t need to undergo the back-breaking (and expensive) task of replacing all your soil. By following a few simple steps, you can restore fertility, improve structure, and reactivate the microbial life in your garden. Here is how to breathe new life into tired raised beds. Why Does Raised Bed Soil "Wear Out"? Over time, several things happen beneath the surface: Nutrient Depletion: Heavy feeders like peppers and corn "mine" the soil for minerals. Compaction: Gravity and watering cause soil to settle, reducing the oxygen available to roots. Organic Matter Loss: As compost breaks down, the soil level physically drops. Biological Stagnation: Without new inputs, the beneficial microbes that protect your plants may go dormant. The Step-by-Step Rejuvenation Process 1. Clear the Canvas Start by removing old plant debris, spent mulch, and weeds. If your previous crop was healthy, compost the remains. However, if you dealt with blight or powdery mildew, dispose of those plants in the trash to prevent disease spores from overwintering in your bed. 2. Aerate Without Over-Tilling Use a garden fork to gently lift and loosen the soil. Aim for a depth of 6–8 inches. Avoid aggressive tilling, as this can destroy the delicate fungal networks (mycelium) that help your plants thrive. 3. Replenish Organic Matter This is the most critical step. Add 2–4 inches of fresh compost, worm castings, or well-rotted manure. This isn't just about food; it’s about improving the "tilth" or texture of your soil so it holds water like a sponge. 4. Supercharge the Biology with Enzymes Even with fresh compost, old soil often has "locked" nutrients that plants can't reach. Incorporate Enzymplus during this stage. Its enzyme-enhanced formula acts as a biological spark plug, breaking down organic matter and old root systems into usable plant food, effectively "resetting" the soil's fertility. 5. Balance the pH and Structure If your soil feels too heavy (clay-like) or too loose (sandy), add perlite or coconut coir to adjust drainage. If you aren't sure where your nutrient levels stand, a quick home test kit can tell you if you need to adjust your pH. 6. Add Targeted Amendments Depending on what you plan to grow next, you may need a specific boost: For Leafy Greens: You'll want higher nitrogen. For Fruits and Veggies: Use Catalyst. It provides a specialized vitamin boost that is essential for raised bed environments where root space is limited. 7. Protect with Mulch Once your bed is prepped, top it with 2 inches of straw or shredded leaves. This prevents the sun from "baking" your newly loosened soil and keeps your moisture levels consistent. 8. The Power of "Rest and Rotate" If possible, let the bed settle for two weeks before planting. To keep the soil healthy long-term, remember to practice crop rotation. Growing different plant families in different spots each year prevents "soil fatigue" and keeps pests from getting too comfortable. Related Reading: Learn more about maintaining a healthy garden in our latest organic gardening blogs. Healthy Soil, Happy Harvest You don’t need to start from scratch every spring. By focusing on biological health and structural aeration, your raised beds can actually become better with age. Ready to wake up your soil? Visit the Biogrowth Organics Shop to find the organic fertilizers and enzymes your garden has been craving. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) 1. Is it cheaper to rejuvenate old soil or buy new bags? Rejuvenating is significantly more cost-effective. A high-quality raised bed mix can be expensive, especially when you factor in delivery or multiple bags. By simply adding a few inches of compost and a biological booster like Enzymplus, you save money and preserve the beneficial soil structure that has developed over the previous seasons. 2. How do I know if my soil has "Soil Fatigue"? If you notice that your plants are staying small, the leaves are turning yellow despite watering, or the soil has become a hard, water-repellent block, your soil is likely fatigued. This is usually caused by a combination of nutrient depletion and a lack of active microbes. 3. Can I rejuvenate soil if my previous plants were diseased? If your previous crops had a serious soil-borne illness (like tomato wilt or root rot), you should proceed with caution. Remove as much of the old root systems as possible and consider a "solarization" process (covering the bed with clear plastic in the summer heat). When replanting, use Thrive to help boost the new plants' natural immunity against lingering pathogens. 4. Why is the soil level in my raised bed dropping every year? This is a natural process called subsidence. Organic matter is constantly being consumed by microbes and converted into energy for your plants. As it breaks down, the physical volume of the soil decreases. Simply top up your beds with a mix of fresh compost and Enzymplus to restore the height and nutrient density. 5. Do I need to "double dig" or turn the soil completely over? Generally, no. Modern organic gardening focuses on "no-till" or "low-till" methods. Turning the soil over completely can kill beneficial fungal networks. Instead, use a garden fork to gently "crack" and lift the soil, allowing air to enter without flipping the layers upside down. 6. Can I plant immediately after adding amendments? While you can plant immediately if you use gentle organic products like Catalyst or Vivid, it is often better to wait about 7–10 days. This allows the soil's pH to stabilize and the microbial activity to spike, ensuring your young seedlings aren't overwhelmed by the rapid breakdown of new organic matter.
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